
Anatomy of a Winch:
Without a strong working knowledge of our innards, physicians and surgeons could not mend our wounds, cure our ailments, or augment our appearances. Similarly, all responsible winch owners should have at least a basic understanding of the ins and outs of their mechanized hauler in order to maximize their utility, helpfulness and value. Besides, the more you know about winches, the easier it is to choose the best one for your outdoor escapades.
- Motor:
The heart and soul of every winch. The motor drives the gear train, which in turn turns the drum to haul in the line. Electrical winch motors connect to your vehicle's 12- or 24-volt battery while hydraulic winch motors tap into your power steering pump.
- Drum:
- The shoulder of the winch. Spun by the gear train, the drum controls the casting out and reeling in of the cable.
- Cable:
The arm of the winch. The cable reaches out, digs its claws into the anchor point, and holds tight while you pull free. Most cable is braided steel, and the diameter and length of the cable is based on the strength of the winch. Some off-roaders are switching to synthetic fiber rope, which is lighter and safer if snapped.
- Fairlead:
The mouth of the winch. The fairlead has two jobs. First, it provides a safe passageway for the cable too spool through. Second, it guides the cable back onto the drum when winching at an angle.
There are two types of fairleads: a hawse and a roller. Hawse fairleads are oval-shaped openings with smooth edges and no moving parts. These basic fairleads work best with synthetic cables since there are no corners to snag on. Roller fairleads have rectangular openings, and each side has a rolling cylinder that gently guides the cable back onto the drum. Steel ropes work best on these fairleads because they reduce splintering.
- Gear Train:
- The muscle of the winch. After the motor starts running, it sends energy to the gear train, where it gets amplified into huge hauling power. The two most common types of gear trains are planetary and worm. In a planetary gear train, multiple gears spin together, creating faster pulling speeds and warmer temperatures. In a worm gear train, there are only two heavy-duty gears, which deliver incredible strength without as much heat.
- Braking System:
- The heels of the winch. When you have a couple tons of weight on your line, you want to be sure that you can keep it under control. Most winches feature automatic brakes that clamp down on the drum once the motor stops, holding your haul steady until you start up the motor again. Heavy-duty rock crawler winches, like the Warn 8274-50 Winch, actually use disc brakes for maximum stopping power.
- Clutch:
The sinew of the winch. In a manual vehicle, you have to step on the clutch to change gears. The same is true of your winch. The clutch lets you either disengage the gear train (for freespooling), or engage the gear train (for pulling). If your winch doesn't seem to be working properly, check to make sure that the clutch is engagedyou may just be sitting in neutral.
- Control Box:
- The brain of the winch. The control box has the basic, but important, job of telling your winch which direction to spin. Most winches have electronic control boxes with mechanical solenoids that switch the line direction between forward and reverse. Mechanical solenoids are vulnerable to failure under extreme heat or biting cold, so Warn developed a M.O.S.F.E.T. control box, which uses no moving parts and works in conditions ranging from -40°F to +180°F.
In general, control boxes are mounted directly on the winch. If space is limited on your vehicle, you can get a winch with a remote control box. That way, you can mount them separately and fit them just about anywhere.
- Remote Control:
The spinal cord of the winch. Like your computer's keyboard and mouse, the remote control is how you interact with the winch. Instead of an "A" and a "B", these remote controls use toggle switches or buttons to haul in or reel out the winch's cable. There are two types of remote controls: wired and wireless. Wired remotes are the standard, and most have a 12' lead. Wireless remotes are gaining popularity because their long range allows you to work the winch at safer, more convenient distances.
Ford vs. Dodge, Hatfield vs. McCoy, Holyfield vs. Tyson—the world is full of famous rivalries. When it comes to winches, there is a head-to-head bout going on between the electronics and hydraulics. Let's take a look at how each type weighs in.
As their name implies, electric winches tap into your vehicle's electrical system to generate power. Here are their basic pros and cons:
Pros:
- Easy to install: In most cases, you simply bolt the winch to your rig and run a couple of wires up to your car battery. You can get most winches for the old-school 24-volt systems or the more modern 12-volt setups, too. This is also incredibly convenient if you want to take off your winch during the off-roading off season.
- Abundant assortment: Variety is the spice of life, and electric winches come in all sorts of sizes, shapes and flavors. From meat-and-potatoes to state-of-the-art, the spectrum of electric winches is quite broad. Somewhere on this scale is a winch with just the right features and plenty of whiz-bang for your needs. And, electric winches are basically universal and can mount onto almost any auto (sedans, wagons and Deloreans excluded, for the most part).
Cons:
- Draw a lot of power: Electric winches put a heavy load on your vehicle's battery. As such, you must have your motor running during pulls to prevent a complete drain. And, they are designed for intermittent use instead of prolonged pulls.
- High operating temperatures: The electric motor creates a lot of heat, which builds up in the drum and can damage the winch. The occasional breather is needed to prevent overheating. Plus, excessive heat is never good for synthetic cables, which can melt and snap if seared on a sizzling drum.
Instead of running off electricity, the motor in a hydraulic winch draws its might from one of the most powerful resources on your vehicle: the power steering pump. This unique setup creates some interesting advantages and disadvantages:
Pros:
- Continuous pull time: When you're stuck on the sidelines, you want to get back into the game as soon as possible. You can run a hydraulic winch almost non-stop for extended periods, greatly reducing rescue times. Even better, your vehicle doesn't have to be running to use a hydraulic winch, so you don't have to burn fuel while you're fishing your friends out of a hole.
- Cooler operating temperatures: Another advantage of hydraulic winches is that they don't produce nearly as much heat as electric winches. You won't have to stand around twiddling your thumbs while your winch takes a knee. And, synthetic cables are less likely to melt and break on a hydraulic winch.
Cons:
- Involved installation: Re-plumbing your power steering pump takes a while and requires a bit of know-how. Expect to spend a few hours under the hood, and an extra set of hands is also helpful. What's more, it's difficult to remove a hydraulic winch once it's been mounted, so it becomes an almost permanent addition to your vehicle.
- Narrow selection: Though not as sparse as a Soviet-era grocery store, the range of hydraulic winches is pretty limited. These bare-bones winches are made for pulling, not for extra features or fancy trimmings. Plus, hydraulic winches are not universal, so they are only made for a select number of vehicles.
There are factions of winch users who swear by electrics, and there are those who would never be caught dead on a dusty trail without their trusty hydraulic. Both kinds of winches are more than capable of freeing your friends or yourself from a tight spot. In general, hydraulic winches are better for longer, sustained pulls. On the other hand, electric winches are just as strong and are incredibly easy to get up and running. It's hard to go wrong with either style, so let your gut be your guide.

- Winches - 2,000lbs to 4,000lbs
- Winches - 5,000lb to 6,000lb
- Winches - 8,000lb to 8,500lb
- Winches - 9,000lb to 9,500lb
- Winches - 10,000lb to 16,500lb
- Winch Mounts
- Winch Accessories
Fun Factoid

In a pinch, dig a dead man
If your vehicle gets stuck outside the range of a solid anchor, you have only two options. First, you can shrug your shoulders, swear off city-dwelling, build a makeshift hut, and live out your days as a shaggy woodsman. Or, you can do what the pro off-roaders do: dig a dead man. These makeshift anchors work perfect in a pinch, and here's how to make one:
- Find a suitable spot in front of your vehicle for digging. Ideally, it should be far enough away to spool out most of your cable for a strong pull
- Break out your shovel and start digging a hole. The hole should be slightly sloped forward in the direction that you are going to pull. It needs to be deep enough to hold your spare tire, a log, or some other broad, weighty object.
- Secure a chain to the buried object and fill in the hole, allowing the chain to snake its way up to the surface.
- Connect your winch to the chain and haul yourself to freedom. The angle of the hole and the weight of the soil should create more than enough resistance. Remember, the deeper the hole, the sturdier your anchor will be.