An introduction to winch mounts
The one common trait among all winches is that they need a firm winch mount. Sure, it would be easy if we could just strap our winches to our bumpers with some bungee cords, but that would be a sure-fire recipe for destruction. Winches need to be snuggly secured to your vehicle to provide the right amount of support to handle thousands of pounds of weight. Here's a quick overview of the most common types of winch mounts:
- Grille Guard Mounts: These popular mounts give you a sturdy platform for your winch, solid front-end protection, and a forceful look.
Most off-roaders need a grille guard anyways to shield the vulnerable nose of their rigs from rocks, vegetation and other hazards. Moreover, this type of mount allows for convenient, fast access to your winch whenever you need it.
Grille guard mounts, like the Ramsey Wraparound Grille Guard, are custom-designed to fit onto your vehicle. The installation usually involves drilling, and some trimming may also be required for a steadfast attachment.
- Hitch Mounts: Hitch mounts, like the Warn Multi-Mount Winch Frame, are the easiest type to install. The winch simply bolts to a cradle, which then hooks up to your class III towing hitch. A rear-mounted winch is especially handy if you venture too deep down a narrow pass, or if a buddy from behind needs a hand. For maximum versatility, you can even connect a receiver to your front-end and pull from either direction.
Hitch mounts are ideal for sharing a single winch among multiple vehicles because you can take them off and put them on so easily. However, this can create a theft risk. Be sure to get a locking hitch pin to secure your winch. When not in use, it's a good idea to leave your winch locked up in your truck toolbox or back at home in the garage.
- Hidden and Semi-hidden Mounts: When you don't want a winch to distract from your vehicle's clean look,
then a hidden or semi-hidden mount is right for you. These winch mounts, like this Ramsey Hidden Mount, connect behind and below your stock bumper, which remains intact. This keeps your winch mostly out of sight, sheltered from the elements, and quite secured from thieves. Because it's tucked away, access to the clutch, cable and other controls can be tricky.
Equipping your vehicle with a hidden or semi-hidden winch mount will take some time, but should not pose a challenge to seasoned do-it-your-selfers. There may be some drilling and cutting involved, though.
- Replacement Bumper Mounts: Sometimes, total reconstructive surgery is just what the doctor ordered. When you want a rock-solid home for your winch, go with a replacement bumper. Taking the place of your stock gear, these custom-engineered bumpers fuse to your frame, forming the firmest base for your winch. And, they come in multiple styles that vary from the subdued, which blend in with your factory lines, to the heavy-duty, which transform your front-end into an imposing sight (the Warn Heavy-Duty Bumper is a perfect example).
As you would expect, installing a replacement bumper mount will take some time and effort. Drilling and cutting are almost always required. If your vehicle is equipped with airbags, it is especially important to take care not to disturb the deployment sensors during installation.
Picking a breakfast cereal is easy: you get what tastes good. Deciding on the right winch involves greater consideration. After all, you can't simply shove an unwanted winch to the back of your cupboard the way you can with a box of Count Chocula. Ask yourself these questions:
Choosing a winch with a high enough rated line pull is critical. While you can't go wrong with extra energy, not enough backbone will leave you stranded. Thankfully, there is an easy formula to calculate the minimum rated line pull needed for your vehicle:
Gross Vehicle Weight x 1.5 = Minimum Rated Line Pull
For example, a 2006 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon has a gross vehicle weight of 4600lbs, so it would require a winch with at least 6900lbs. of rated line pull, like the Ramsey Patriot 8000 Winch. Compare that to an 8600lbs 2006 Hummer H2, which needs a winch with at least 12900lbs. of pulling power (the burly Warn M15000 Winch would do the job). Size does matter.
Everyone has heard of curb weight, but gross vehicle weight is not a term that gets batted around too frequently. Here's a quick explanation. Gross vehicle weight is basically the maximum your vehicle can weigh when fully loaded with passengers, gear and fuel. Most owner's manuals have the gross vehicle weight listed along with the other specs, like engine size and oil grade. If it's missing, you can estimate your gross weight by taking your curb weight and adding the approximate mass of you, your passengers and all the stuff you plan on packing along.
Automobiles have an elaborate system of interwoven parts and components to generate speed. An engine, transmission, fuel pump, fuel injectors, differential—the list goes on and on. Winches, on the other hand, have just one: the gear train. Even better, there are only two types of gear trains to choose from, so the choice is pretty easy.
- For the fastest line speeds, get a winch with a planetary gear train. Some are faster than others, but nearly all of our winches have detailed information showing line speeds under different loads.
- For a steady pace with less heat, look into a winch with a worm gear train. By using fewer moving parts, worm gears can work extremely hard without creating a lot of excess heat.
The cable is probably the most important part on your winch<. Even if your motor, gear train and drum are in prime working condition, a bum cable means no pulling.
There are two types of cables: steel and synthetic. Steel is the standard for most electric and hydraulic winches, seen here on the Mile Marker PE6000 Winch. It offers incredibly strength, rugged durability, and greater longevity. On the down side, steel cables are incredibly dangerous when they snap, can develop sharp splinters, and add extra weight to your front-end. Synthetic cables, as seen on winches like the Ramsey Triple-X 6000 Winch, are rapidly gaining popularity because of their lighter weight and soft feel. Best of all, when synthetic cables break, they do not snap violently around like a steel cable. However, they are more expensive, more prone to breaking, vulnerable to heat damage, and require more finesse during the pull.
- For first-time winch owners, it's best to start with a steel cable. They are more tolerant of abuse and cheaper to replace.
- Experienced reelers should use what they feel most comfortable with. If steel has always treated you kindly, stick with what works. For long-time synthetic users, why switch now?
- If you want to cut down of your vehicle's weight, go with the synthetic. This is especially true for rock crawlers and mud boggers, whose abilities can be reduced by excess pounds.
All the pulling power in the world is worthless if you can't reach an anchor point. Having enough cable is critical, but too much can dramatically cut your winch's strength. Calculating the right cable length is something of a balancing act, so here are a few suggestions:
- A good all-around length of cable to have is between 90' and 100'. This should give you plenty of range without a lot of excess.
- On dense forest treks and rocky passages, a shorter cable is best. Around 60' and 80' is plenty in areas with a lot of solid anchors.
- For adventures into barren badlands and desert wastelands, be sure to pack along plenty of spare cable. Between 110' and 150' of spool is a good amount in these wide-open spaces.
Table saws, plasma welders, crucibles—every tool requires a certain amount of precaution. Winches are no exception. The amount of weight and tension involved in a normal pull can be tremendous. If the cable were to snap...well, you can just imagine the damage that a steel whip can inflict. Rubber bands hurt enough, and they're not even made of metal.
It's important to follow some basic safety measures while you're using your winch:
- Take plenty of time to plan your pull. Survey your surroundings and determine the best course of action based on the terrain and anchor points.
- Always wear gloves when working with the winch's cable. Over time, your line can develop steel splinters, which can tear uncovered hands to ribbons.
- Designate an area that's far enough away from the pull for others to watch from. No one should ever be standing in front of or behind your vehicle, and never near the cable.
- Choose an anchor point that's both strong and secure. Trees, rocks and other vehicles are all prime anchors. If possible, find a spot that's straight ahead of the direction you want to pull.
- Operate the winch from inside your cockpit. For maximum protection, you can lift the hood and use it to shield your windshield.
- Lay something over the midpoint of the cable to absorb energy in case it snaps. A heavy blanket, coat, tree branch, chain or something else that's pliable and weighty will work just fine.
- Go slowly. It's better to ease your way back onto the road than rush and risk injury.
A dose of common sense and these pointers should keep you, your winch and your vehicle safe, sound and on the go.
We hope you have found our Winches Research Guide Center a good guide in helping you choose the best Winches for your vehicle. It is AutoAnything's goal to provide the most information on the Internet and through our Auto Accessory Specialists on every product we sell. If you have any information that you think could help improve this section, please email us at researchcenter@autoanything.com.