

There’s a right way and a wrong way to do just about everything. Sure, you could have your sketchy second cousin weld up a ball mount onto your bumper with some scrap metal that he is totally sure will hold up towing your boat — that’s the wrong way (sorry Scooter, facts are facts).
Instead, you could buy yourself a tailor made solution that has been engineered by actual professionals that you can bolt right up in an afternoon — this is the right way to get it done.
Installing Your Trailer Hitch
You can install hitch mounts wherever your truck is usually parked. You’ll need a few basic hand tools to accomplish the task. Although it’s a good idea to read the manufacturer’s instructions as well, installing a hitch typically has the same basic method, regardless of brand.
Here’s a basic rundown on how best to approach installation:
- First, set the parking brake on your truck and block the wheels. This is important for your safety as well as for the safety of your truck.
- Then, jack up the truck so that you have plenty of clearance to do what you need to do. Next, use the manufacturer’s instructions to install the hitch, but don’t tighten any of the bolts yet.
- If your vehicle doesn’t already have pre-drilled holes for hitch mounts, you’ll need to drill them into the frame. You can use the loosely assembled hitch to help you determine where the holes need to go.
- Once drilled, use some C-clamps to attach the hitch to the frame and securely tighten the bolts into place.
- Finally, connect any electrical connections for the turn signals and brake lights on the hitch and be sure to test them to ensure they’re working properly. When you’re sure they work, you’re ready to use your new hitch.
How To Choose the Right Hitch
Hitch classes are determined by their gross train weight and their tongue weight. The GTW is the total weight of the trailer plus everything it’s towing, while the TW is the total amount of weight that is bearing down on the hitch. The mounts are classified in categories I-V. Class I and II are for light loads while III, IV, and V can handle heavier workloads. Typically, Class I hitches hold up to 2,000 pounds GTW and 200 TW while Class V hitches can accommodate up to 20,000 GTW and 2,700 TW.


Still not enough capacity for you? Well 5th wheel hitches and gooseneck hitches enable you to haul up to 30,000 lbs, and have an advantage in towing heavy loads with better road stability and the ability to take on a much higher tongue weight.
Every trailer hitch we offer is engineered to work with your specific year, make, and model vehicle, and most applications bolt right up with no drilling needed. Please note that no hitch can raise your factory towing capacity. A hitch may be rated for a higher rating than your vehicle’s limits, but this is by design for safety. Your vehicle manufacturer limits must still are still applicable.
What Else You Should Know Before You Tow?
Do you have a ball mount ready to go? Some hitches will come with them, others will have ball mount options on the page.
Plus, most models work in unison with a wide variety of trailer hitch covers and logo hitch covers, enabling you to add your favorite sports or auto logo onto the hitch mount when not in use, preventing excess moisture and other debris from getting into the trailer mount. Hitch mounts and similar Ford accessories take a good thing and make it better. Delivering safety and convenience, the proper trailer hitch is a must for any road trip or for those who routinely haul oversize loads. Go ahead and read our trailer hitch reviews to find out our customers’ experiences with their hitches. We also have this handy Hitch Class 101 article, so be sure to check it out.
So what do you think? Anything I missed? Have a question on your towing setup? Drop a comment below!
Do you sell any logo plugs for hitch receivers?
Hey Rodney,
Absolutely, we have plenty to choose from. You can find our selection here: https://www.autoanything.com/towing/10A50740.aspx?n=4294956319
Cheers!
Garrett