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- Go wide and still enjoy your ride with Alloy USA Wheel Spacers and Adapters
- Expertly engineered to push out your wheels, making room for oversized tires
- Their hub-centric design helps maintain wheel balance
- Machine carved from aluminum for the ideal mix of strength, weight savings and corrosion resistance
- Multiple Alloy Wheel Spacers available in either 1.25” or 1.5” sizes
- Comes complete with pre-installed grade-8 wheel studs and 10 lug nuts
- Sold in pairs
- Alloy USA Wheel Spacers are backed by a 5-year warranty
When you're venturing out into the hinterlands, you never know what condition those trails are in. A wet winter or a dry summer can wreak havoc on usually stable off-road paths, leaving the ground either so soggy you sink right down to your axles or so cracked your tires get caught in the crevasses. The only way to survive these conditions is with bigger tires, and the best way to squeeze them onto your 4x4 is with Alloy USA Wheel Spacers and Adapters.
If clearance is what ails you, Alloy USA Wheel Spacers are the perfect cure. Mounted between your hub and your wheel, they push your rims out from inside your wheel well, creating extra room for your monster-sized Michelins. And since they're built following a hub centric design, you get your gap without compromising wheel balance or ride quality.
Whether you're conquering the Rubicon in a thoroughbred Wrangler or tackling tamer trails in a truck, Alloy Wheel Spacers come in multiple sizes to fit most popular rigs. Each Alloy Wheel Spacer is machine carved from aluminum for both strength and corrosion resistance. And, they're backed by a 5-year warranty.
Alloy USA Wheel Spacers & Adapters Customer Reviews
2 Customer Reviews
Reviewed by Joshua K (great barrington, MA) Reviewed for a 2008 Jeep Wrangler — Feb 03, 2016 6:42 AM
So, I started with the passenger rear wheel. My socket got stuck in every one of the holes and it took forever to get it out. But my socket fit perfectly in all three other spacers when I torqued them down. When it was time for the re-torque, I saved the passenger rear for last. I zipped through each hub, hand torquing to spec. When I got to that dreaded passenger rear hub, I had problems fitting my socket in, then wiggling it back out (swapping from torque to breaker bar to wiggle it out).